The summer capital and the gateway to the Kashmir valley, Srinagar is built around water. Dal and Nigeen lakes shape the rhythm of the city, the Mughal gardens step down towards them in terraces, and the old town on the banks of the Jhelum holds some of the finest wooden architecture in the region. Almost every trip to Kashmir begins and ends here.
- Altitude
- About 1,585 m
- Best season
- April to October for gardens and shikaras; December to February for snow
- Getting there
- Direct flights to Srinagar (SXR); rail to Banihal; NH-44 by road
- Ideal trip length
- 2 to 3 nights, often bookending a wider tour
Dal Lake and the Shikaras
Dal is the image most people carry of Kashmir: carved wooden houseboats moored along the shore, shikaras gliding between them, and floating vegetable gardens tended from small boats. A shikara ride at sunrise, when the light is soft and the floating market is trading, is the version worth getting up for. Staying a night on a houseboat is a genuinely different experience from a hotel, and the older boats have interiors of walnut carving and crewel-work that are worth seeing in their own right.
The Mughal Gardens
Built in the seventeenth century as summer retreats, the Mughal gardens are laid out in terraces that step down towards the lake, with channels of running water on the central axis and chinar trees framing the views. Shalimar Bagh, Nishat Bagh and Chashme Shahi are the three most visited, and all can be seen comfortably in one afternoon. Nishat has the best outlook over Dal; Shalimar is the grandest; Chashme Shahi is the smallest and the quietest.
The Old City and the Bazaars
Downtown Srinagar rewards walking. The lanes around the Jhelum lead past the wooden Khanqah of Shah-i-Hamadan, the Jamia Masjid with its forest of deodar columns, and bazaars trading in saffron, dried fruit, copperware, papier-mâché and Pashmina. Prices and quality vary enormously, particularly for shawls and carpets, so it helps to go with someone who knows the trade.
Food and Hospitality
Kashmiri cooking is distinct from the rest of North India, built on aromatic spice rather than heat. Rogan Josh, Gushtaba, Yakhni and Kashmiri Pulao are the dishes to look for, and the full Wazwan — a multi-course banquet served on a shared plate — is a formal occasion worth experiencing at least once. Finish with Kahwa, the saffron and almond green tea served everywhere.
Beyond the City
Srinagar makes a practical base. Dachigam National Park, home to the endangered Hangul deer, is a short drive away. So are the Pari Mahal terraces above Chashme Shahi, the Shankaracharya temple on its hill above the city, and the tulip garden below Zabarwan, which opens for a few weeks each spring and is the largest of its kind in Asia. Gulmarg, Pahalgam, Sonamarg and Doodhpathri are all within a couple of hours by road.
Before You Go
- Agree the price and the route with your shikara operator before you set off, and be clear about how long the ride is for.
- Houseboats vary widely in standard. We book boats we know, on Dal and Nigeen, and Nigeen is noticeably quieter.
- Buy Pashmina, saffron and carpets from established shops and ask for documentation. Street prices that look too good usually are.
- The tulip garden season is short, generally late March into April, and exact dates shift with the weather each year.
- Srinagar can get cold and damp from November. Pack layers even if you are only passing through.
Plan Your Trip to Srinagar
We arrange transport, stays, permits where they are needed and a local driver who knows the route. Tell us your dates and we will put together an itinerary.